Wagon wheel impressions still mark the earth of the western Kansas prairie, where, beginning in 1877, Black former slaves journeyed across the plains. Those ruts, a physical reminder of the former slaves’ brave and challenging escape from new post-Reconstruction oppressions in the American South, and their dreams of true independence, self-determination and self-governance.
But wagon wheel ruts aren’t the only reminder of that dream; they lead to the small, unincorporated community of Nicodemus, Kansas, the oldest, and last remaining, all Black town in the American West.
Angela Bates is a fourth-generation descendent and historian of the community’s original settlers. Bates has dedicated much of her life to preserving and sharing the story of her hometown, her community and her ancestors.
“It’s my personal family story and it’s the nation’s story,” Bates said in an interview with the Daily Yonder. “It’s the only town that historically represents that time period at the end of reconstruction.”
Today, thanks to the work of Bates and other Nicodemus descendants, the town and its history remain intact.
“Ho For Kansas!”
After the conclusion of the Civil War and Reconstruction in the late 1870s, it became clear to many Black southerners that, while slavery had been abolished, oppression, poverty and violence persisted.
Many migrated to northern cities, where jobs and opportunities were more accessible. Others hoped to move West, where they could build communities — by Black Americans for Black Americans — from the ground up.
By early summer in 1877, several families had become Nicodemus’ first settlers, and by the end of the summer over 300 train tickets were purchased for a ride out west. Families packed what they could carry and boarded trains headed to Ellis, Kansas, the closest railroad station to Nicodemus. From there, settlers loaded up on wagons to head 35 miles north to Nicodemus.
Despite a harsh first winter spent in dugouts, Nicodemus quickly became a bustling farming community of 700-800 residents. Notably, the community was self-governed. Some residents would go on to become the first Black public officials in the county and state.
The organization of an all-Black township and, following that, a county organized by that township caused a stir in the region. “[White folks in the area] did not want all of the Black folks to govern them or the county,” Bates said.
W.R. Hill, a white land developer who helped settle Nicodemus, even began to work to prevent the Black township’s growing influence. He made sure Nicodemus was located on the eastern border of the county, and that his township, Hill City, was located in the center and became the county seat.
In 1887, three railroad companies were prospecting the area to extend their rail lines out West. If the railroad passed through Nicodemus, it would all but ensure Nicodemus’ continued economic growth.
The community newspapers did their best to entice more settlers to make Nicodemus more attractive to the railroad. And residents voted to raise $16,000 to support rail line expansion, and reserved the land for the project.
But when the railroad company began to lay the track, they bypassed the thriving community.
